London Daily

Focus on the big picture.
Sunday, Aug 02, 2026

John Galliano in Conversation With Hamish Bowles, a Bonus Episode of In Vogue: The 1990s

John Galliano in Conversation With Hamish Bowles, a Bonus Episode of In Vogue: The 1990s

When Hamish Bowles interviewed John Galliano, his former Central Saint Martins classmate, for the London Libertines episode of our podcast series In Vogue: The 1990s, the material was so rich that it was made into a special bonus track. This week, it’s being released to coincide with the designer’s 60th birthday.

Over the span of the episode, Galliano traces the arc of his career, from studies in English literature, French, and art at City of East London College, to Saint Martins, to Paris, where the designer lived a hand-to-mouth existence before he was tapped by Bernaud Arnault of LVMH to become the creative head of Givenchy and shortly thereafter Christian Dior.



Galliano was the first Englishman to helm those historic Parisian couture houses. Today, of course, he’s happily pursuing deconstructivist fantasies at Maison Margiela.



In retrospect it seems like fashion was Galliano’s destiny, but that’s not exactly how the story unfolded. While enrolled at the City of East London college, the young Brit took a once-a-week art class. “I already loved drawing and I was told I was quite gifted. So... I ended up going to these classes and spending more and more time than I should have. And I liked the crowd there,” he relates. “And the wonderful kind of hippy trippy teachers there at the time advised me to apply to Saint Martins School of Art. And I did as they said and then I was offered a place.”



Once at Saint Martins, pen and paper continued to be Galliano’s preferred medium. He became “lost more in history and illustrations and cartoons, and the way they depicted characters and often summed up a line.” Galliano hadn’t planned on making a graduate collection, but was encouraged by his tutor, Sheridan Barnett, to pick up a pair of scissors and follow his illustrative lines in cloth. The rest is history. Tune in to hear Galliano share more of his journey.



“I was working on these huge crinoline shapes, [that] kind of moved like a Hogarth illustration because we threaded [them] through telephone wires so [the] crinolines were just out of control in the lightness and the movement. ” -John Galliano on his spring 1994 Princess Lucretia collection



“ [It was] a bit like a salon presentation, but quirky.... There was one chandelier that I wanted to put up, but we never got round to it so we just left it crashed on the floor.” -John Galliano on his fall 1994 collection



“We recreated the Parisian rooftop scene and then covered it with snow as the girls prowled around and over the rooftops.”-John Galliano on his fall 1995 Dolores collection



“Galliano is now living his ‘Empire’ dream, of Josephine hair and absintlie-drinker’s eyes.”-from “Couture Unzipped,” by Philip Weiss, Vogue, October 1996



“Not long ago, the future looked grim for John Galliano, the eccentric-by-any-standard young Englishman who was struggling in a small Paris atelier-perpetually on the verge of ruin. But Galliano’s talent and originality are so dazzling that soon he caught the eye of the powers that be at the venerable House of Givenchy. And now Galliano has been catapulted even further into fashion’s stratosphere. Last month, he was tapped to replace Gianfranco Ferré as the head of the house that launched postwar fashion, Christian Dior.”-from “Letter from the Editor: International Style,” by Anna Wintour, Vogue, November 1996



“Well the first couture collection… we recreated the salons and then we had done a lot of research into the backstage of salon presentations that Mr. Dior himself had done. …I mean, it was in the deep end, baptism by fire.”-John Galliano on his spring 1997 couture collection for Christian Dior



“It opened with Suzanne von Aichinger in a wonderful black dress with a little tricorn, running up and down the stairs and around the balconies and frightening everyone. It was a quite striking impression, and she introduced the life of the Marchesa Casati. ... [At the end] tthere was all this butterfly confetti that fell over everyone. And it was like an impressionistic painting because you could see them and you couldn’t see them.”-John Galliano on his spring 1998 couture collection for Christian Dior



Learn more about John Galliano on In Vogue: The 1990s.

Newsletter

Related Articles

0:00
0:00
Close
Finland Deploys Commercial-Scale Thermal Batteries Using Crushed Rock to Store Renewable Grid Energy
Valued at $109 Million: F-35B Fighter Jet Crashes in Southern California
Sainsbury Agrees to Sell Argos in £120 Million Deal to Private Consortium
High Court Clears Way for Construction of Chinese Embassy at Royal Mint Court
UK Fuel Prices Climb to Multi-Month Highs as Strait of Hormuz Tensions Disrupt Oil Supplies
Severe Summer Drought and Record Heat Put UK Harvests at Risk
Prime Minister Andy Burnham Faces Labour Backbench Opposition Over Potential Support for New North Sea Oil and Gas Drilling
Bank of England Warns Inflation Will Stay Above 3% as Middle East Energy Shock Prolongs Cost-of-Living Pressures
Andy Burnham has Announces Plans to Redistribute Income Tax Revenue to English Mayors
Early-Release Scheme Faces Fresh Scrutiny as Reoffending and Prison Recalls Rise
Police Phone Checks Followed Report on Murder of MI5 Agent Inside Sinn Féin
Archbishop of Canterbury Reaffirms £100 Million Reparative Justice Fund During Ghana Visit
Charities Allege French Police Used Tear Gas Against Channel Migrants
Norwegian Teenager Convicted Over Iran-Linked Murder Plot in Britain
Christian Organisations File Charity Complaints Against Amnesty International UK
Ofgem Tightens Grid Connection Rules for New Data Centres
FTSE 100 Reaches Record High Despite Global Technology Sell-Off
Millions of UK Households Urged to Check Eligibility for Winter Energy Discount
Labour Restores Parliamentary Whips to Diane Abbott and Joani Reid
UK Supreme Court to Hear Challenge Over Palestine Action Ban
UK Commits More Than £8.4 Billion to Dreadnought Nuclear Submarine Programme
England Declares Severe Drought as Wildfire Burns Near Sizewell Nuclear Site
Bank of England Holds Interest Rates at 3.75% as Middle East Tensions Fuel Inflation Risks
Drought Status Extended Across All of Wales as Heat and Dry Weather Deepen Environmental Strain
Record-Low Danube Exposes Probable Mammoth Remains in Bulgaria
UK Business Confidence Climbs to Four-Month High
Greater Manchester Gains Expanded Powers Under Regional Funding Reforms
UK Supreme Court to Hear Appeal Over Palestine Action Terror Ban
Shell's Quarterly Profit Doubles to Nearly $10 Billion on Higher Energy Prices
UK Government Removes VAT From Household Electricity Bills
Exceptional Drought Grips Half of England as Wildfire Threatens Sizewell
Bank of England Holds Interest Rates at 3.75% as Inflation Risks Persist
US Says It Has Carried Out Heavy Strikes on Iran After Attempted Attacks on Its Forces
The chief executive of the popular gaming company laid off many employees and his pay rose to 38 million dollars
UK Employment Holds Steady as Wage Growth Remains Moderate
England to Introduce Artificial Intelligence into Secondary School Curriculum
Wales Launches £1.2 Billion Industrial Regeneration Programme
High Court Upholds UK Digital Surveillance Framework
Northern Ireland Reaches Budget Agreement on Infrastructure and Public Sector Pay
Home Office Expands Digital Border Checks Nationwide
UK Approves Major North Sea Wind and Carbon Capture Project
The World's Most Terrifying Smartphone: Recording, Documenting, and Reporting to the Regime
Scotland Approves Major Renewable Energy Expansion
UK and United States Sign AI and Semiconductor Cooperation Pact
UK Treasury Tightens Fiscal Controls After Gilt Market Volatility
Bank of England Holds Interest Rates at 4.5%
UK Unveils £10 Billion NHS Funding Overhaul and Workforce Reform
The AI User Nightmare: Private Claude Conversations Leaked to the Internet
UK: Former Football Association Leaders Call for World Cup Boycott Over FIFA Privatization Plan
Forbidden Love: China severs millions from their virtual partners
×