London Daily

Focus on the big picture.
Wednesday, Oct 28, 2026

Why you should be chomping at the bit for a ‘chewing gum top’

Why you should be chomping at the bit for a ‘chewing gum top’

GQ goes inside menswear’s slinky, strappy, sexy new mood, AKA the ‘chewing gum top’

Cast your mind back ten years ago: London Fashion Week Men’s was naught but a twinkle in the BFC’s eye, street style was still in its infancy and the pin-sharp three-piece suits worn by Donald Draper and his army of dapper Mad Men were considered the bleeding edge of masculine fashion.

Fast forward a decade and, my, what a way we’ve come. The brief, jersey-clad, pandemic-induced interlude aside, last year Harry Styles wore a Gucci frock on the cover of American Vogue, this year A$AP Rocky rocked a kilt on the cover of American GQ and, more recently, the world’s menswear designers have begun throwing gender-normative caution to the wind, with even the straightest-laced brands sending freewheeling looks and garments down their respective runways: silken blouses slipped out at Giorgio Armani’s SS22 show, while thigh-grazing mini skorts slunk down the glossy red catwalk at Prada.

But far from being a fad, this movement towards total flexibility, whether in the wider realms of gender or, indeed, the way in which a garment simply works or is worn, seems to have taken hold at the very heart of the fashion industry and, suffice to say, it’s exciting.

One of the most intriguing garments to be spawned by this new era of playfulness on the part of the designers is a piece we’re dubbing “the chewing gum top”. Defined as a vest, T-shirt or long-sleeved underlayer featuring multiple cut-out holes, designed to evoke a popped Hubba Bubba bubble-cum-stretched spider’s web effect across the torso, it was difficult to move for all the chewing gum tops parading up and down the runways during the SS22 menswear shows back in June.

The look was at its most mouthwatering at Y/Project, where Belgian designer Glenn Martens (who also oversees all things creative at Italian denim brand Diesel) stretched an array of stringy cut-out vests across the torsos of his models as part of the brand’s wider collaboration with Fila.

Y/Project SS22

Indeed, Martens is spearheading the charge for the new menswear mood, eschewing the “tops and bottoms” approach of so many designers before him in favour of a uniquely flexible approach to silhouette. The designer’s trademark pieces include oversized origami shirts and blazers finished with expansive wraparound panels and a couture sensibility.

At Rick Owens, the aesthetic was equally stringy, but this time the look was infused with a witchiness all Owens’ own. The American designer has long propounded the notion of genderless fashion and his takes on chewing gum vests could just as easily be worn by men or women as they could by the extraterrestrial-esque models who walked in his Venice show.

Rick Owens SS22

At GMBH, Serhat Isik and Benjamin Huseby showed classic trench and greatcoats finished with waspy “revenge dress” wraparound toppings, which revealed the ultra-masculine models’ shoulders and acted, in the words of the designers, as “an exploration of whiteness”.

At Burberry Ricardo Tisci took the butch-fem cosplay in a different direction, with beefcake models walking the runway wearing the kind of sculpted halterneck that wouldn’t have looked out of place in the wardrobes of Regina George et al in the 2004 teen flick Mean Girls.

The most exciting thing about the chewing gum top – as well as all the other radical garments which are being spawned alongside it, from revenge dress coats to party frocks for blokes – is that viable, wearable, flattering alternatives to basic shirts, suits, trousers, T-shirts and sweaters are finally coming to the fore. And they’ve arrived not a moment too soon, because, here at GQ, we’ve never been more bored of our wardrobes, HBU?

Newsletter

Related Articles

0:00
0:00
Close
Aberdeen City Council Co-Leader Faces Binding Vote Challenge as Local Councillors Launch High Court Legal Battle
Housebuilding Across Scotland Falls to Eleven-Year Low Despite Government Declarations of a Housing Emergency
Former Prime Minister Gordon Brown Organizes National Innovation Summit in Manchester to Boost Regional Competitiveness
UK Government Faces Mounting Criticism Over Lack of Environmental Consultation During Artificial Intelligence Datacentre Expansion Talks
Greggs Announces Closure of Four Major Manufacturing Facilities Across Britain Resulting in Seven Hundred Forty Job Losses
British Retail Consortium Warns That Cumulative Employment and Regulatory Costs Threaten High Street Price Stability
Lloyds Banking Group Chief Executive Charlie Nunn Warns That Increased Bank Taxes Could Deter Long-Term Economic Investment
Ipsos Polling Reveals Seven in Ten Britons Expect Personal Tax Increases Amid Deep Public Economic Pessimism
Chancellor John Healey Delivers First Autumn Budget in Parliament Amid Tight Fiscal Constraints and Slower Growth Forecasts
United Kingdom Finance Monthly Review Highlights Rising Long-Term Borrowing Costs and Persistent Energy Price Pressures Across British Markets
Royal Marines Pioneer Rapid Autonomous Drone Operations During Major High North Exercise Involving NATO Allies
House of Commons Justice Committee Urges Chancellor to Align Prison and Courts Reform Ambitions With Concrete Budgetary Resources
Government Investigates Rapid Artificial Intelligence Datacentre Expansion Strategy Following Scrutiny Over Power Grid Demands and Planning Backlogs
His Majesty's Inspectorate of Constabulary Warns Third-Party Supplier Breaches Threaten United Kingdom Police and Fire Service Data
Number of British Businesses in Financial Distress Reaches Highest Level in Two Decades Ahead of Fiscal Announcement
Chancellor John Healey Prepares Autumn Budget Amid Intense Market Scrutiny Over Fiscal Headroom and Spending Pressures
Education or Indoctrination? The Growing Debate Over Religious Participation in British Schools
Germany's Vanishing Shopfronts: The Silent Collapse of the Businesses That Built Its Cities
Northern Ireland Executive Reaches Agreement on Public Transport Modernization and Cross-Border Rail Infrastructure Funding
Department for Energy Security and Net Zero Approves New North Sea Carbon Capture and Storage Industrial Clusters
Office for National Statistics Reports Stabilization in Private Rental Growth Across Major English and Welsh Regional Cities
United Kingdom Automotive Manufacturing Output Rises Moderately as Electric Vehicle Assembly Lines Expand in the Midlands
Competition and Markets Authority Launches Formal Inquiry Into Cloud Computing Infrastructure and Artificial Intelligence Partnerships
Scottish Government Finalizes Emergency Budget Adjustments Following Multi-Year Public Sector Funding Shortfalls
National Health Service England Announces Major Emergency Care Overhaul to Alleviate Severe Winter Capacity Pressures
Chancellor Rachel Reeves Prepares Autumn Budget Amid Intensifying Scrutiny Over Public Spending and Fiscal Rules
Bank of England Signals Cautious Approach to Further Interest Rate Cuts as Persistent Wage Growth and Inflation Pressures Remain
Transport for London Unveils Expanded Zero-Emission Bus Fleet to Meet Capital Air Quality Targets
Higher Education Institutions Face Deepening Financial Strain Amid Declining International Student Enrolment
Automotive Industry Leaders Criticize Government Tax Policies and Urge Action on Retail Consumer Confidence
Environment Agency Issues Flood Alerts Across Scottish and English Waterways Following Heavy Rainfall
Independent Audit Highlights Persistent Security Vulnerabilities Across Legacy Government Digital Portals
Northern Ireland Political Leaders Clash Over Westminster Funding Allocations Ahead of Autumn Budget
Ethnic Minorities in England Face Significant Disparities in Routine Breast Cancer Diagnosis Rates
National Police Chiefs Report Alarming Surge in Domestic Abuse Cases Fuelled by Expanding Illegal Cocaine Market
Government Announces Two Hundred and Twenty Million Pound Pothole Funding Boost for Local Highway Authorities
China Issues Formal Warning Over Potential United Kingdom Restrictions on Chinese Electric Vehicles
British Defence Ministers Sign E5 Pact to Enhance European Military Capabilities and Industrial Cooperation Within NATO
United Kingdom Business Activity Expands at Fastest Pace in Eight Months According to S&P Global Flash Survey
Chancellor John Healey Prepares Major Devolution Package and Bank Profit Surcharge Ahead of Upcoming Autumn Budget
National Health Service Consultants in England Announce Two-Day Strike Action Scheduled for November
Major Clean-Up Under Way Across Britain Following Destruction Caused by Consecutive Storms Austen and Boelo
KEY TRENDS TO WATCH
Declassified Intelligence Files Reveal British Security Services Monitored National Health Service Founder
British Government Launches Sweeping Regulatory Crackdown on High-Risk Cosmetic Procedures
Scottish National Party Demands Ban on Using Scottish Revenues to Fund English Nuclear Energy Projects
Mayor of London Initiates Landmark Pedestrianisation of Oxford Street to Revitalise Global Retail Hub
British Judges Granted Expanded Legal Powers to Punish Convicted Killers Who Refuse to Attend Sentencing
United Kingdom Poised to Miss Reduced International Aid Spending Targets Ahead of Fiscal Review
Surging Cocaine Consumption Drives Record Drug Fatalities and Rising Crime Rates Across Britain
×