London Daily

Focus on the big picture.
Saturday, Apr 04, 2026

Why you should be chomping at the bit for a ‘chewing gum top’

Why you should be chomping at the bit for a ‘chewing gum top’

GQ goes inside menswear’s slinky, strappy, sexy new mood, AKA the ‘chewing gum top’

Cast your mind back ten years ago: London Fashion Week Men’s was naught but a twinkle in the BFC’s eye, street style was still in its infancy and the pin-sharp three-piece suits worn by Donald Draper and his army of dapper Mad Men were considered the bleeding edge of masculine fashion.

Fast forward a decade and, my, what a way we’ve come. The brief, jersey-clad, pandemic-induced interlude aside, last year Harry Styles wore a Gucci frock on the cover of American Vogue, this year A$AP Rocky rocked a kilt on the cover of American GQ and, more recently, the world’s menswear designers have begun throwing gender-normative caution to the wind, with even the straightest-laced brands sending freewheeling looks and garments down their respective runways: silken blouses slipped out at Giorgio Armani’s SS22 show, while thigh-grazing mini skorts slunk down the glossy red catwalk at Prada.

But far from being a fad, this movement towards total flexibility, whether in the wider realms of gender or, indeed, the way in which a garment simply works or is worn, seems to have taken hold at the very heart of the fashion industry and, suffice to say, it’s exciting.

One of the most intriguing garments to be spawned by this new era of playfulness on the part of the designers is a piece we’re dubbing “the chewing gum top”. Defined as a vest, T-shirt or long-sleeved underlayer featuring multiple cut-out holes, designed to evoke a popped Hubba Bubba bubble-cum-stretched spider’s web effect across the torso, it was difficult to move for all the chewing gum tops parading up and down the runways during the SS22 menswear shows back in June.

The look was at its most mouthwatering at Y/Project, where Belgian designer Glenn Martens (who also oversees all things creative at Italian denim brand Diesel) stretched an array of stringy cut-out vests across the torsos of his models as part of the brand’s wider collaboration with Fila.

Y/Project SS22

Indeed, Martens is spearheading the charge for the new menswear mood, eschewing the “tops and bottoms” approach of so many designers before him in favour of a uniquely flexible approach to silhouette. The designer’s trademark pieces include oversized origami shirts and blazers finished with expansive wraparound panels and a couture sensibility.

At Rick Owens, the aesthetic was equally stringy, but this time the look was infused with a witchiness all Owens’ own. The American designer has long propounded the notion of genderless fashion and his takes on chewing gum vests could just as easily be worn by men or women as they could by the extraterrestrial-esque models who walked in his Venice show.

Rick Owens SS22

At GMBH, Serhat Isik and Benjamin Huseby showed classic trench and greatcoats finished with waspy “revenge dress” wraparound toppings, which revealed the ultra-masculine models’ shoulders and acted, in the words of the designers, as “an exploration of whiteness”.

At Burberry Ricardo Tisci took the butch-fem cosplay in a different direction, with beefcake models walking the runway wearing the kind of sculpted halterneck that wouldn’t have looked out of place in the wardrobes of Regina George et al in the 2004 teen flick Mean Girls.

The most exciting thing about the chewing gum top – as well as all the other radical garments which are being spawned alongside it, from revenge dress coats to party frocks for blokes – is that viable, wearable, flattering alternatives to basic shirts, suits, trousers, T-shirts and sweaters are finally coming to the fore. And they’ve arrived not a moment too soon, because, here at GQ, we’ve never been more bored of our wardrobes, HBU?

Newsletter

Related Articles

0:00
0:00
Close
Prince Harry and Meghan’s Australia Visit Set to Draw Heightened Global Attention
UK Considers Entry Fees for Overseas Visitors at Major Museums Ahead of 2026 Travel Season
UK Prime Minister and Kuwait Crown Prince Coordinate Security Response After Regional Escalation
Calls Grow to Expand Fully Paid Maternity Leave for UK Teachers Amid Workforce Pressures
UK Secures Tariff-Free Access to US Market in Landmark Pharmaceuticals Agreement
Trump Projects Strength in Critique of UK Leadership and Naval Readiness
UK FinTech Setback as VibePay and Smartlayer Cease Operations Amid Funding Pressures
UK Leads Global Coalition of Over Forty Nations to Address Strait of Hormuz Crisis
UK Firms Urged to Accelerate Preparation as New Sustainability Reporting Rules Take Shape
UK Moves Rapid Sentry Air Defence System to Kuwait After Drone Strike Escalation
Transatlantic Relations Tested as UK Seeks Balance While Trump Reshapes Strategic Approach
Trump’s Strategic Pressure on UK Seen as Push for Stronger Alignment and Fairer Terms
UK Focuses on Trade Finance to Secure Critical Materials for Defence and Energy Sectors
Majority of UK Businesses Hit by Middle East Conflict While Confidence Holds Firm
UK Royal Navy Faces Renewed Scrutiny as Debate Intensifies Over Capability and Readiness
Reform UK Faces Mounting Distractions as Policy Agenda Struggles to Gain Traction
Investigation Launched Into Northern Cyprus IVF Clinics After UK Families Receive Incorrect Sperm
International Meeting Issues Unified Call to Safeguard Navigation Through Strait of Hormuz
Potential Strait of Hormuz Closure Raises Concerns Over UK Food and Medicine Supply Chains
UK Leads Coalition of Over Forty Nations Urging Iran to Reopen Strait of Hormuz
UK Secures Tariff-Free Access for Medicines in Landmark US Pharma Trade Agreement
King Charles III Invited to Address Joint Session of U.S. Congress in Rare Diplomatic Honor
Debate Grows Over Whether Expanded North Sea Drilling Can Reduce UK Energy Bills
UK Faces Heightened Risk of Jet Fuel Shortages, Airline Chief Warns
UK Ends Police Investigations into Lawful Social Media Posts After Review Finds Overreach
Abramovich Moves to Establish Charity for Frozen Chelsea Sale Proceeds Amid UK Dispute
Starmer Reaffirms NATO Commitment While Responding to Trump’s Strategic Critique
UK Aid Reductions Raise Fears of Severe Human Impact Across Parts of Africa
UK Signals Renewed Push for EU Cooperation as Iran Conflict Reshapes Security Landscape
Bank of England Signals Caution as Bailey Advises Markets Against Expecting Rate Hikes
UK to Convene Global Coalition to Restore Shipping Through Strait of Hormuz
Trump Signals Possible NATO Reassessment, Emphasizes Stronger U.S. Strategic Autonomy
Australia Joins British-Led Efforts to Reopen Strait of Hormuz Amid Escalating Tensions
King Charles Plans US State Visit as UK Strengthens Ties with Trump Leadership
UK Regulator Launches Investigation Into Microsoft’s Business Software Practices
Kanye West Set for High-Profile Return to UK Stage at Wireless Festival
Trump Presses Europe to Strengthen Commitment as Iran Conflict Escalates
UK to Deploy Additional Troops to Middle East Amid Rising Regional Tensions
UK Authorities Face Claims of Heavy-Handed Measures in Monitoring Released Pro-Palestine Activists
Trump Calls on UK to Secure Its Own Energy as Iran Conflict Intensifies
Nigel Farage Declines Invitation to UK Conservative Conference Led by Liz Truss
Trump Warns Allies to Take Responsibility as Rift Deepens with UK and France Over Iran Conflict
How Britain’s Prime Minister Controls U.S. Bomber Access in Escalating Iran Conflict
Trump Urges Allies to Secure Their Own Oil Supplies as Hormuz Crisis Disrupts Global Energy
Russia Expels British Diplomat as UK Pushes Back Against Pressure
White House App Faces Scrutiny After Claims of Continuous User Location Tracking
BBC Faces Scrutiny Over Allegations of Paid Content Linked to Saudi Arabia
UK-France Coastal Patrol Agreement Nears Breakdown Amid Migration Pressures
UK Police Detain Pro-Palestine Activist Again Weeks After Bail Release
FTSE 100 Advances as Energy and Mining Shares Gain Amid Middle East Tensions
×