12 Incredible Vegetarian Restaurants to Try in London
One of the most exciting meat-free restaurants in the world, Amazonian-inspired cuisine, pioneers of the city’s vegetarian scene, and more
Are London’s best vegetarian restaurants necessary? While more and more people are cutting down on meat, the number of vegetarian places in London has been dwindling, though this must be viewed in the context of a wider epidemic of restaurant closures. Ceremony, Wildflower, and Stokey Veg Vegan are among the most significant to pull down their shutters recently: exciting vegetarian venues that took good food rather than animal welfare, environment or health as a starting point: a major departure from meat-free places of yore.
For all their singularity, though, vegetarian food is now so mainstream that most London restaurants offer good vegetarian options — and even entire menus; vegetarians find it easier than ever to dine out with omnivore friends. That mainstreaming sits alongside the sharp rise of veganism, which leads to a sharp rise in vegan restaurants, which are not the same as vegetarian restaurants and often more attuned to — or entirely controlled by — current meat-free trends.
These two things actually explain why vegetarian restaurants are so important. First, mainstream restaurants may unwittingly use ingredients with hidden meat or fish in dishes, such as cheeses with animal rennet, gelatine, lard, chicken stock, fish sauce and so on. Vegetable dishes may be cooked in the same pan as meat, as any vegetarian eating chips that taste vaguely of chicken knows.
Additionally, fellow diners may unthinkingly dip their forks and chopsticks into shared dishes when eating out with vegetarians. And while omnivores are able to eat meat-free small plates from a shared menu, vegetarians cannot eat their counterparts, which can lead to awkward situations. And many vegetarians don’t want the processed nut cheeses, non-dairy milks, egg substitutes and meat substitutes of vegan restaurants.
This round-up of London’s best vegetarian restaurants is centred first and foremost on places that serve good food; even the few here that have ‘wellness’ or sustainability at their heart shine with superb cooking. Restaurants that focus on single cuisines have been deliberately left out, otherwise the list would just be dominated by Indian restaurants and falafel joints.
This elegant, minimalist restaurant near Chancery Lane is
London’s smartest vegetarian. More than that, it’s one of the most
unusual, interesting and exciting meat-free venues in the world. It
marries molecular gastronomy techniques with classic French fine dining,
a quirky English sensibility and exceptional ingredients — including
some grown on-site using state-of-the-art technology. It doesn’t hide
behind the comforting clichés of pastas, quiches and meat substitutes;
instead taking inspiration from fresh individual vegetables, sometimes
lesser-known, unloved ones. Not everyone will get dishes such as whipped
creamy, unctuous Londonshire from Wildes Cheese served with
cracker-like squares of dehydrated Branston pickle ‘toffee’ and celery
and lovage jam – but those who do, are in for a treat.
What would London’s vegetarian dining scene be like if it
had been the Indian-Iraqi Jewish brothers Adrian and Michael Daniel who
had landed the Guardian vegetarian column? After all, the
founders of The Gate — now a four-strong chain — had been serving zhug
and tagine, and scattering pomegranate seeds and crumbled feta on their
dishes for decades before Yotam Ottolenghi came along. This cavernous St
John’s Wood branch opened a few months ago: a handsome-looking place
with large wrap-around windows and potted plants that give it a
conservatory feel. The chain is famous for fungi dishes such as wild
mushroom risotto cake in creamy cep sauce, dense and earthy as the
forest floor; and there are now more Asian influences on the menu. Try
delicate, tempura-like courgette flower if it’s available: stuffed with
own-made ricotta and perched on a hillock of beluga lentils, it is
exquisite.
This newest branch of the popular vegetarian mini-chain
is located in large, bright Dalston Square just behind the Dalston
Junction train station. The menu travels the globe; and the cooking at
this branch is particularly vibrant. Stand-out dishes include
wood-roasted cauliflower with charred leeks, skordalia and turmeric
almonds; and substantial, spicy-sweet jerk tofu with rum guava glaze,
coconut rice and peas, mango slaw and fried plantains. Fans of the
Polish beetroot and white bean burger with pickled red cabbage and
gherkins – it’s back on the menu, though it’s now served in a brioche
bun so tastes a bit different.
The first thing to be said about this homely, two-room
East Sheen venue is that, although it is vegetarian, it uses some
cheeses with animal rennet, including Parmesan — chef-proprietor Emerson
Amélio de Oliveira strongly believes these have a superior flavour.
That said, the eco-friendly venue, with sustainability at its heart, has
by far the most inventive vegetarian menu in London. Oliveira comes
from a Brazilian-Italian background; and this is reflected in dishes
such as hand-made pastas and risottos, alongside the use of Amazonian
fruit and veg. There are plenty of dishes with breadfruit and jackfruit
sourced from Tooting market; and speciality items such as dende oil,
phytoplankton, and vegan faux gras. Some of the over-ambitious dishes
don’t quite come off, but ‘nduja sausage’ made from jackfruit seeds and
flesh, cassava, and smoked paprika impresses with its subtle spiciness;
and a trio of Amazonian fruit sorbets made from açai, cupuaçu and pitaya
taste like frozen nail polish — in the nicest possible way.
This trendy vegetarian venue in Crouch End with bare
brick walls may have healthy eating at its heart, but the food is so
tasty and skilfully made the health angle is barely discernible. There
are several international dishes such as expertly made, ethereal spring
onion gyoza; jackfruit in beautifully spiced tomato sauce with coconut
rice, black beans, guacamole and grilled plantains; and dense, mealy
arepas with a soft crumb. Cakes include three-layered tiramisu sponge;
plus there are Latin American breakfasts, Buddha bowls, burgers and
cocktails. A real neighbourhood gem.
Hidden away at the very back of Kings Cross’ Granary
Square development, past the Coal Drops Yard, Skip Garden, is a
beautiful community garden created entirely of fruit, veg, flowers and
plants growing in skips. It’s run by Global Generation, an educational
charity that helps young people in the area; and this vegetarian café,
located by the entrance, is part of the project. Although there’s some
indoor seating, it’s best to visit in sunshine when lunch can be eaten
on one of the many wooden tables outside, surrounded by greenery. The
straightforward menu encompasses a hot dish, a soup, salads and
sandwiches, made using some of the ingredients grown in the garden. A
quiche of ‘London blue cheese,’ labneh and kale stalks is wonderfully
savoury, and salad may include a mix of British-grown spelt grains,
roasted fennel, slow-roasted tomatoes, cavolo nero and pickled leeks.
Freshly baked cakes and pastries are also a strong point here,
especially the plump scones.
Secluded in one of the labyrinthine side streets behind
Goodge Street tube station, this chic, cosy vegetarian café has tempting
displays of colourful salads, hot dishes, cakes and pastries by the
entrance; and a miniscule seating area at the back. Originally set up by
a father and son duo, the venue shut down for a few months last year,
and has recently reopened with a new owner. It’s notable for currently
being the only vegetarian venue in London to showcase cooking with
broadly Ottolenghi-esque Middle Eastern influences. Regularly changing
dishes may include quinoa, pepper and tomato-stuffed courgettes, and
salads such as turmeric-golden cauliflower; mixed peppers with
chickpeas, spinach and coriander; wild rice with borlotti beans and
pomegranate molasses, and — best of all — roasted aubergine discs topped
with tahini sauce, pumpkin seeds and shallots.