Seán McGirr taps into 90s-era spikiness in Alexander McQueen debut show

Seán McGirr introduced a 90s-inspired edge in his first show as Alexander McQueen's creative director, aiming to steer the brand toward 'rough glamour' and 'anti-politeness.’ The industrial, concrete setting, reminiscent of the brand's raw past, was fittingly bleak due to a rainy day, potentially echoing the late Lee McQueen's dark wit.

Models on the catwalk, wrapped tightly and marching briskly as if avoiding trouble on a late-night street, wore designs that echoed McQueen's signature style.

Padded shoulders and form-fitting trousers were prominent. McGirr's collection nodded to past McQueen designs, like a glossy black jersey dress reminiscent of a piece from Lee McQueen's 1995 "The Birds" collection.

Unfazed by the legacy of predecessors Sarah Burton and Lee McQueen, the 35-year-old McGirr emphasized his vision of McQueen drawing inspiration from the raw elegance of London's East End. His moodboard featured icons like Kate Moss and Amy Winehouse, indicating a preference for the raw, edgy fringe.

Despite an "uplifting" intent, the scowling models suggested otherwise, with the show attempting to recapture the original McQueen's rebellious spirit rather than Burton's more delicate approach.

The decor and accessories, including student-like tapestries and safety pin brooches, added a rough charm. McGirr also infused personal elements, such as vibrant "car dresses" nodding to his upbringing with a mechanic father. Post-show, he planned a modest celebration with family, signaling sentimental values amidst the fashion hustle.

Despite industry scrutiny of gender disparity in leadership roles, McGirr subtly distanced himself from McQueen's past provocative designs, opting for exaggerated silhouettes in oversized knitwear over historically controversial corsetry.